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Hyduino (Speeduino+ H2 Gms ( Gas Management System)
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Thought I'd put together some useful links to tuning information available on the Speeduino site and elsewhere on the net. This information is a good place to start out when putting together your initial tune. The Speeduino forums and WIKI are a really good source of information too and should really be the starting point for anyone just getting into Speeduino. Some of this information is not Speeduino specific and so there are some references to tuning information for other ECU's. The principles are of course the same for any engine.
If you have any additional info / links please feel free to post below and I will include them. Also if there is info you want to see let me know. I will keep adding to this as I find more useful stuff. If you have questions on any of the items, please post a question to the group. General principles overview ---------------------------------- It's worth getting an understanding of how EFI systems work, especially the jargon. This will help both when designing and tuning your system. This is a great general overview and a good starting point http://www.megamanual.com/begintuning.htm Another good general resource: http://www.sdsefi.com/tech.html Groundwork / Getting started ---------------------------------- Whether it's a fresh installation or you are trying to retrofit a Speeduino ECU to your car, you need to get an understanding of how the ECU uses sensors / triggers / etc. The WIKI and forums are the best for this. Use the search function. Many people have trodden this path before you, there's heaps of info there. Take a look at the standard V4 speeduino board in the WIKI, it has good explanations of what all of the inputs and outputs do You will also need the info from whoever made your board that shows the pin-outs and how to install the Speeduino firmware on it. This will differ from board to board. The connections on YOUR board may be different from the V4 board in the WIKI, so you will need to create a map of YOUR pins. Ask whomever made the board if they already have this (they should do). If you are retrofitting, you need to work out what sensors your car has and whether they are compatible with the ECU. If they are not compatible you will need to source alternate sensors. The big one to check is your trigger setup. Not all trigger patterns are supported. If you are starting from scratch, there's great info in the WIKI and on the forums for basic generic sensors that will work with Speeduino. Almost any sensor can be made to work, you just need the calibration data for it. You need to find the pin-outs for your sensors and map them to your ECU Pin map. If you are retrofitting you may be able to do this at the old ECU connector by making a harness adaptor. If someone has previously installed a Speedy on your engine, they may be able to help you with the pin mapping. This might sound complicated and a bunch of legwork but spending the time to create your map will make life much easier when it comes to creating your wiring loom or harness adaptor. There's nothing worse than having to modify a wiring harness after it's finished. So, take your time, do it right, do it once! Hardware setup / reference ---------------------------------- Building your ECU and designing your hardware layout. Whether you've bought a completed ECU or are building your own the following information will help you with your initial setup and testing. It also has info on selection, setup and testing of the peripheral devices such as coils and sensors. Beginners guide: https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=221&p=2892&hilit=getting+started#p2892 Installing software and firmware: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIO0MnfNeP0 Getting started videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9xW07Zt6hk Great reference on various sensors and data sheets available or download over on the Motec site. Some of the settings are Motec specific but lots of valuable info there - https://www.motec.com.au/downloads/downloadsappdrawings/ Injector information ---------------------------------- Setting your injector specs and the correct fuel pressure for your injectors should be the first thing that you do. If you don't have the correct injector data and fuel pressure then it can massively affect your tune. *** Injector latency - It's critical to establish correct voltage correction for your injectors before undertaking your tune as even a small voltage deviation can result in a large flow deviation - especially with higher flowing injectors. *** Injector flow data - There's a couple of documents in the files section of the page that cover flow rates for Bosch and the most popular brands - https://www.facebook.com/groups/SpeeduinoTuning/files/ Also this great online resource - http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm Some basic info on how to set latency / dead time here - https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=2010&p=28201&hilit=voltage+correction+injector#p28201 Common / generic latency listings - http://injector-rehab.com/shop/lag.html I compared these to the actual listing for my own injectors (Bosch) and found it to be near-enough but not identical. Another good source of reference is the PC Link software (injector data is under fuel settings) - https://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ A good video explaining how to set Injector latency / dead time (also source for PC Link tip) https://youtu.be/vi83XSPsNbA?fbclid=IwAR2gym4SG_wOgfm3AIv4_Kek2AKF1d7dM2IXnZR4R7f6TNoko88vNy4FcTw Additionally you can change the # of squirts to help determine the dead time. theres a post on the forum about it https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=180&p=2354#p2354 (source: comments from above video) Ignition Table ---------------------------------- The best method by which you can create your ignition table is to convert the OEM ignition curve as this will take into account dynamic timing changes due to engine characteristics. Creating timing map based on OEM info: https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1946&p=26834#p26832 If you don't have any OEM data then you can use the following table generator MS Spark table generator: http://www.useasydocs.com/theory/spktable.htm (The format appears to be different but you can cut/paste values into a saved table) VE Table ---------------------------------- Your VE table will be corrected when you use autotune. So all you need here is a relatively accurate starting point. The built in VE table generator is all you need. VE Table tuning (from WIKI): https://speeduino.com/wiki/index.php/Tuning There is also a VE table generator available on the 'tools' tab of the VE table view. AFR Table ---------------------------------- The AFR table will vary greatly depending on what kind of engine you have. An N/A engine has much different requirements to a forced induction setup and event then a turbo will be different to a supercharger. It's worth remembering that the VE table will be (auto)tuned to hit the targets set in your AFR table, so if your AFR table is no good, your tune will follow. Take some time here and do some research. If you can find a good AFR table for your engine great. If not then the built in table generator does a pretty good job, but you may need to manually tweak it. There is a built-in AFR table generator available on the 'tools' tab of the AFR table view. This does a pretty good job. Coil pack ---------------------------------- Setting the correct dwell, spark duration and dwell voltage correction is very important. It is possible to burn out your coils with incorrect data. *** We are still looking for a good listing of the most commonly used coils including recommended dwell settings - if you have any info please share. *** Technical article on Dwell, including some basic latency data - http://dtec.net.au/Ignition%20Coil%20Dwell%20Calibration.htm Startup and idle tuning ---------------------------------- With the above information set you are now almost ready to start tuning, but before you do it is important to disable all of the unnecessary options in Tuner Studio. You need to disable things like lambda correction, warm up enrichment, timing compensation etc. This prevents them from influencing the tune or otherwise adding extra complexity to fault finding. If your basic AFR / Timing / VE tables / injector / coil pack data is good then your car should start and idle. If it's not idling, open up your throttle stop and give it some more air. The first thing you need to do after you have your engine running is let it warm up. All tuning (apart from startup tuning) should be done with the engine at operating temperature. Now you are ready to tune your idle. Initially this is something that you really need to do manually. You want to aim to increase the idle speed by modifying the VE values in the live cells at and adjacent to the idle. You then reduce the idle speed by closing the throttle stop adjuster. Keep doing this until there is no difference to the idle speed by adjusting the fuel, then back it off a little. Basically if your engine likes it, it will want to run faster, it's essentially making more power. Engines tend to like more fuel and timing at idle so feel free to adjust these manually until you get a nice smooth idle at your target idle RPM. If your VE values approach or exceed 100% then it is a good indication that your AFR values are incorrect and you may need to review your AFR table. Assuming all is good, at this stage of the tune you don't really want to try and dial in WUE or idle timing modifiers as the rest of the tune needs to be dialled in before enabling these. This video gives a pretty good overview of what you need to do - https://youtu.be/qeLEzDPkq7o Auto Tune ---------------------------------- With your idle now set you should be able to start and idle the engine, so now you are ready to start on the rest of the tune by using auto tune. Auto tune is only available in the full version of Tuner Studio, which means you will need to dig deep and pay for it. But it is worth every cent. Essentially you enable auto tune by enabling it under the 'Tune Analyze Live' tab in Tuner Studio. Then you simply drive around. Initially you will drive slowly with slow acceleration. As you do this you will see the changes being made to the VE map in the 'Cell Change' window. The amount of change is indicated by the colours of the cells. This is also a good indicator of what RPM and loads you have driven at and what RPMs and loads you still need to target. Carry on driving until you've managed to tune for most of the map. To get all areas you will need to undertake a variety of driving, from slow around town to motorway driving. In each case remember that slow steady acceleration is the key, the longer time you spend in each cell, the better the tune. It will not take to dial in the tune using Auto Tune, so after a while you might want to look at reducing the authority limits and set up some filters to prevent the good part of your MAP from being altered. There will be some areas that you potentially cannot hit, so you may need to manually smooth those areas to suit. Acceleration enrichment ---------------------------------- Assuming that you now have your tune sorted, what you may find that is you now have some hesitation when accelerating quickly. (Remembering that all of our auto tuning has been using slow steady acceleration) This hesitation is most likely to a lean condition as the extra inrush of air exceeds the ECU's ability to keep up with adding fuel. The answer to this is acceleration enrichment. To tune your acceleration enrichment you will need to utilise the data logging tool. Here's a good outline on how to use it... https://www.facebook.com/TechworxTuning/videos/2323849404526368/ Essentially you want to enable data logging and then undertake some quick acceleration tests, accelerating from a steady cruising speed to a faster speed. What you will likely see as you floor it is that your AFR dips at the point that the TPS opens, causing a dip in RPMs before recovering. If the inrush is extreme (ie the throttle body is too big for the engine) it may even stall. Using the Acceleration Enrichment function you can add fuel (%) for any given throttle position. You want to increase the fuelling for the throttle position you tested and then retest with data logging. You are really aiming to take the AFRs to a richer than stoich condition. How much will depend on the engine and whether it is N/A or forced induction. Essentially the engine is under increased load so it needs a lot more fuel. Heavy load is the detonation danger zone, so we need to make sure that we do not go lean. You will need to repeat this for other throttle positions and other speed ranges tweaking the settings and checking the data log until you are happy with the results. Diagnostics / Fault finding ---------------------------------- If something goes wrong, or you are struggling to get things set up then don't worry, you have some great tools built into Tuner Studio that can help you. You can test injectors and coils using the built in hardware testing functions (which need to be enabled in project settings) and by far the best tool, especially if trying to get help from others, is data logging. Data logging. Good video outlining how to use it. https://www.facebook.com/TechworxTuning/videos/2323849404526368/ Other Resources / Advanced Tuning ---------------------------------- Those things that don't fit under any other heading... Video primers covering various aspects of tuning: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6UMj0PxBbbj_N8S-aD6M-A/videos